At The Pass with An Tran

Chef An Tran, owner of Ba Noi, with his daughters.

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Meet An Tran.

🕘 6 min read

Currently

Chef/Owner, Bà Nội 

Formerly

Robinson Bread, Mattachioni, Parts & Labour, Cumbrae's, Rhum Corner, The Beer Store

Favourite dish to make right now

Plain chicken congee with ginger. It's cold right now, so this is all I want. And the kids will eat it, which is a bonus.

Last cookbook purchase

Ha! I haven't bought myself anything in years, but my wife bought me the The Noma Guide to Fermentation by René Redzepi and David Zilber a few years back when it came out as part of my Christmas present. 

Have you read it/tried any recipes

Sadly, I have not. I haven't found the time in the past few years building my own space while parenting. But it looks great on my shelf.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Not a dish or ingredient but the concept of using food to promote toxic wellness culture. Like bone broth or congee as miracle food. Cut that shit out.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

The use of locally grown whole grains, freshly milled with all its nutrients, bran, and germ.

Ba Noi Country Loaf cross section. Classic naturally leavened sourdough bread.

Biggest influences

My biggest influences right now are Toronto whole grain bakers like Robinson Bread, Evelyn's Crackers, and Motherdough Mill & Bakery. They are extremely talented, community-driven bakers and business owners who are using freshly milled flour supporting local farmers and sustainable food systems while producing high quality products.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

Geez, I dunno. I don't get out much lately. Eating at any restaurant would be nice, but I guess any restaurant where my friends are working. I just wanna see familiar faces.

Last thing you ate

My daughters' leftover frozen chicken nuggets and fries that they didn't finish.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge 

Whole milk, fresh veggies (carrots, peppers, celery, cukes, etc...), and yogurt. I'm a parent of two little humans.

Guilty pleasure 

Loga's Corner Beef Momos, steamed. I can crush three or four boxes in a sitting, two hot sauce each box.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Like I said, we don't get out much anymore so I'll just name the last three I ate at and enjoyed: Loga's Corner, Sakai Bar, and Bernhardts.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Paradise Grapevine, Black Dice, The Greater Good - great for day drinking with kids.

Char Siu cross section.

Go-to drink

I'm pretty basic - I drink Wild Turkey or lite beer.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Gee, there's soooooo many. But I guess the biggest one is I don't eat healthy or regularly at work. Here's a bonus one: Since we started wearing masks at work during covid, I constantly try to taste food but end up rubbing food all over my mask almost every time.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

I embrace my mistakes. We all make them. I'm not perfect, but I won't let it inhibit me from moving forward. Well, I hope that will inspire them. Or they'll just think I'm a fuckup.

Hidden talent

I used to work at The Beer Store and I can sort empties or kill a line faster than anyone to this day, without the attitude.

Best career advice you ever received

Be yourself. I dunno who said it. Probably from TV or something. But it's good advice.

Worst career advice you ever received

If you want more money, don't work in kitchens. Cooks don't get paid what they're worth because of this type of attitude.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

There's a lot of ego in the kitchen. Doesn't mean they're great, it just means they have a big ego. Don't let it intimidate or inhibit you from learning and growing and being happy. And lose the ego.

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.   

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