At The Pass with Katy Chan
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
🕒 6 min read
Currently
Executive Chef/Co-owner, Neon Food Group – Café Neon, Bar Neon, Bread & Wine by Bar Neon, Neon Commissary, Blue Collar Bakery
Formerly
Cook, FOH Restaurant Manager, Textile Designer. A million years ago it seems, I worked at Magna Golf Club in Aurora where I grew up, Brassaii briefly when I first moved to Toronto, and most recently Awai. To be perfectly honest, I've been an entrepreneur most of my life, so it's been over a decade of working for myself!
Favourite dish to make right now
When I’m home I usually make a whole steamed white fish with ginger, green onion and soy.
Last cookbook purchase
Have you read it/tried any recipes
Oh yes...I’ve tried the grits, they were delicious! There was a LOT of stirring involved.
Name one dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
Tuna. It’s overfished and at risk of becoming extinct.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
Local organic grains! Don’t use that shitty grocery store flour. Support our local organic agriculture by using quality flour. Buy online, or check your local health food store. Yes, it can be difficult to source, but it is one hundred per cent worth it.
Biggest influences
Two of my Instagram baker heroes are Tara Jensen and Kate’s Bread (aka Kate Pepper). Their grit and passion for bread is motivating and their ability to do such quality work without the crutch of fancy equipment, giant budgets AND in a way that expresses who they are, is a true inspiration for me.
I learned a great deal about priorities and leading my team from doing my externship with Nathan Isberg. I am very grateful for that time.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
Raan Jay Fai in Bangkok.
Last thing you ate
My sourdough, toasted with some really nice butter.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Wine, garlic, onions.
Guilty pleasure
Croissants, croissants, croissants.
Squash Pasta Handmade semolina-egg pappardelle, acorn and delicata squash, collard greens, brown butter, sunflower dukkah.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Pho Linh... The Restaurant at Pearl Morissette... Honestly, I cook at home a lot. And I know this isn’t technically a restaurant, but the deli section at Starsky is epic. I go there regularly.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
Paradise Grapevine, Archive, Imanishi Basement Bar
Your go-to drink
Dry Gin Martini with Christopher Wren Gin, one olive, straight up.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Drinking too much coffee.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Bring the FOH Hospitality into the kitchen. Greet everyone by name at the start of the day, say goodnight to everyone at the end of the day, help each other, always treat everyone with respect.
Hidden talent
I’m quite good at sewing.
Best career advice you ever received
Improve the fit between your strengths and your job, from the book The Happiness Hypothesis: Finding Modern Truth in Ancient Wisdom by Jonathan Haidt.
Worst career advice you ever received
My guidance counsellor in high school encouraged me to only apply to universities, based on my grades. Instead, I really should have pursued trades and technical colleges for the kind of work I truly enjoy doing. I’m incapable of sitting still studying or working at a computer for hours - I need to move around, talk to people, work with my hands and see tangible progress in my workday.
So many young people fall into the University ‘trap’ that does not lead to an actual career or fulfillment in the work they do. It’s SO important to seek out opportunities to try the kind of work you think you might actually enjoy. Applied, hands-on learning and mentorship is how I’ve been able to build my skills and my career.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
Always be studying and reading, always keep learning and pushing yourself, challenging yourself. If you’re the smartest person in the room, you’re in the wrong room.
Eat everything, try everything with no judgment so you can understand what makes good food good.
Listen. You will always learn more from listening and watching. The best cooks are quiet and focused on their craft.
Please support local businesses whenever possible.
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
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