On June 9, 2017 Toronto Firefighters dispatched 44 trucks and 30 crews to battle a “raging blaze” on Baldwin Street, as reported by The Toronto Star.

One of the restaurants affected was RYUS Noodle Bar at 33 Baldwin Street, which closed after sustaining severe water and smoke damage.

Fortunately, a second location, secured earlier this year, just opened at 786 Broadview Avenue, across from Broadview Subway Station. I got a first look:

Chef Takahashi’s modern ways

Born in Kashiwa, Chiba, chef Ryuichiro Takahashi worked in Japan and Vancouver before opening on Baldwin in 2013.

His blend of Japanese, Chinese and French techniques and flavours makes his ramen and other dishes unique. Here you’ll find ingredients of arugula, black pepper freshly ground at your table, truffle oil, and sous vide Angus Beef and chicken.

“I love eating French, Italian, lots of kinds of food. I’m always thinking about my dishes,” he says.

Remarkable ramen

The menu at Broadview was to be quite different than Baldwin, but due to the closure, the menus have been married together for the time being. You get to enjoy classics from the old menu and try ones specific to the east-end restaurant.

Chef Takahashi’s distinctive broths are simmered for six to eight hours, and his secret sauce – which he says is difficult to make – of dried seafood (scallops, sardines) and seaweed takes 24 to 48 hours.

Familiar selections include Shio, Miso and Shoyu ramen, with four broth options including a thick vegetable broth (made with potato, cauliflower and onion), clear, chicken, and chicken and beef. Pork broth is used for just one dish: Tsukemen Dip’n Noodle. The Broadview location features an exclusive chicken broth made with high-grade Ontario poultry and Angus beef. The result is sweet, rich and full of umami.

Noodles come two ways: thick and thin. Custom-made in California using two types of wheat: white and whole, the result is a toothsome noodle with bite and bounce.

You’ll also find popular Japanese favourite Tsukemen (dipping noodles) featuring cold noodles served separate from the soup. Extra thick, the soup is made with plenty of niboshi (dry infant sardines), thick bonito and mackerel flakes, for a rich authentic flavour.

Appetizers, rice and vegetarian options are also available.

The menu changes two to three times a year, in addition to specials and an annual anniversary menu.

Delectable drinks

While the usual tea, pop and water options are available, there are a few standouts, including: Hitachino Nest Japanese Classic Ale ($9.75) matured in cedar casks, and Ikezo Peach Sparkling Jelly Sake ($9.50) in a can that has the texture of gelatin, yet is full of effervescence.

And you’ve never seen Cream Soda ($3.95) like this before – a neon green concoction made with Pepsi Cola(!) and juices (melon, orange and other citrus), topped with a hearty scoop of vanilla ice cream.

At the table

The light, bright dining room is clean and streamlined. Sidle up to the bar or grab a table. A mix of white brick, black furniture and warm woods makes for a modern, cozy space.

Chef Takahashi installed a garage door out front, allowing for lots of light and fresh air.

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While there are a slew of eateries serving up ramen and other Japanese fare in the city, none are like this. Satisfying, surprising, and all at a price you can afford – you’ll be hooked after just one slurp..

RYUS Noodle Bar (786 Broadview Ave.) accommodates 30 guests, including the bar. Dine-in, takeout and delivery are available.

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