How a Toronto server created summer’s most fascinating ice cream
James Pottie serving scoops and vibes on Queen West. All photos by Stephanie Dickison | Toronto Restaurants.
🕒 5.5 min read
Pre-pandemic, artisanal scoops in the 6ix were already on the rise, but it was the global crisis that pushed cravings – and emotional need - for the ubiquitous frozen dessert beloved by people of all ages to new heights. Shops and services flooded the city on an almost weekly basis, with established chefs turning their attention to developing evocative creations, resulting in a renaissance of the nostalgic treat.
James Pottie isn’t a chef, though a taste of his concoctions might have you believe otherwise. The Haligonian transplant currently works front of house at one of the city’s buzziest restaurants, Bernhardt’s, five nights a week. An effervescent charm and effortless polish at the table illustrates his clear love of serving, his vocation for many years. The rest of the time is spent on his “passion project”: Juicy J’s Creamy Scoops, a pop-up currently residing inside Ration | The Beverley, helmed by Chef Jef Edwards.
Method Man
His mission, like many ice cream and other single food item pursuits, began during the pandemic, but envisioned months prior. Despite having “no culinary background whatsoever,” he started making ice cream. “I really wanted to workshop custard,” he says on the Ration patio on Queen West. “Egg yolks are the way to go. I didn’t want to use stabilizers.” The launch took longer than expected – getting his hands on organic dairy used in all varieties except the vegan option, proved difficult. The pop-up softly launched on August 13.
“Flavours that have never been done before”, being his prerogative, quickly led to new and fascinating results. “My brain just started exploding with flavours, ” he says. The very new wave, very structured,” hyper-artisanal flavours are available inside Ration as scoops to go ($5) or containers ($9/12 oz).
A closer look at the new wave, hyper-artisanal scoops.
The current lineup may sound gimmicky at first, but ingredients are deftly executed to replicate specific dishes or cuisines using the iced treat as the medium without anything too molecular or sleight of hand involved. Appearing over the top on the menu, on the spoon, elements work in unison to create a rich landscape of flavours and textures.
Flavour Flav
Take Parmesan & Bananas Foster Caramel, for instance. Inspired by the iconic tableside delicacy and his Acadian roots, Pottie’s signature dish is made in stages: Fresh parmesan (including rinds for intensity) is added to cream, caramel is made then folded into bananas before a triumphant flambé and pinch of cinnamon to finish. The good times roll in a Vitamix, resulting in a sweet and savoury banana extravaganza.
Triple threat Za’tar with Pomegranate Molasses Ripple & Pistachio Praline combines the earthy smokiness of the Middle Eastern spice blend with a hefty dollop of tart sweetness and nutty crunch. Thick, dark, soybean paste glaze delivers a serious umami bomb to Mango Infused With Cilantro, Hoisin Ripple & Toasted Coconut. And a whisper of polarizing herb cilantro delivers a bright zest in the super savoury dessert with fruity notes that will have you thinking ‘Mango Salad and Spring Roll’ for dinner all day.
Ice cream n’ fries forever.
Frosti & Fries, a take on a certain fast food chain’s milkshake/soft serve hybrid and must-have side, is a dine-in only option for reasons that soon become clear. Malt powder and chocolate milk ice cream served with deep fried potato skins (upon my visit, crispy fries were used instead) for dipping, a pro move Pottie has been doing for ages (and one you’ll adopt for life now), is as delightfully genius and addictive as it sounds. And the salty element really activates your palate, so don’t be surprised if your willpower to stop goes completely out the window.
For those who don’t do dairy, Pottie asserts, “I will always have a vegan option.” Right now, it’s a funky, fruit-forward, herbaceous blend thanks to Corkumbucha, small-batch kombucha made by friend Sam Corkum, chef de cuisine at top Toronto restaurant, Aloette.
The aim for the product line, he says, is to “constantly be switching flavours.” This is in part due to his “love of the changing seasons,” so he’s always on the lookout for the freshest organic produce to produce the invigorating flavours inspired by “traveling and eating at Michelin-starred restaurants, and restaurants here in Toronto.”
“My goal,” he says, dunking fries into the creamy malt confection, “is to make flavours that people have never had before.”
Mission accomplished.
Juicy J’s Creamy Scoops
Ration | The Beverley Hotel
335 Queen St. W.
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