At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Introducing Shela Labao.

🕒 6 min read

Currently

Owner.Baker/Owner The New Pie Company, Office and HR Manager elsewhere

Formerly

This is my first foray into the food industry, so I don’t have past work experiences.

Favourite dish to make right now

I’m doing a deep dive to Filipino cuisine lately and I’ve resurrected my Grandmother’s Sinigang na Hipon recipe -. It’s a soup with a sour tamarind base broth, okras, snake beans, taro root, tomatoes, and shrimp. It’s incredibly satisfying!

Last cookbook purchase

Pie for Everyone by Petey Paredez

Have you read it/tried any recipes

Not yet. She has many amazing summer fruit pie recipes so I’m waiting for the warmer season.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Beets. I’ve tried so many different dishes but I just can’t convince my brain that it tastes delicious.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

We need more pies on dessert menus!

Biggest influences

Chef-wise: Christina Tosi. I love how playful her dishes are and I relate to her way of reaching into flavours from her childhood memories and recreating them. Also my grandmother, Angela - I used to go with her to the wet market. She introduced me to so many flavours and the joy of making food.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

I’d be happy eating at any of Nancy Silverton’s restaurants!

Last thing you ate

A handful of sour key candies while listening to my boyfriend say that I may have a sugar addiction.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Butter, heavy cream, and eggs.

Guilty pleasure

A day to myself - sitting and drinking coffee at my own pace in a coffee shop, followed by a nail appointment, and then a shopping stroll on Queen W. I’m dreaming of the day this will happen again.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Côte de Boeuf’s little wine bar, Campechano, Pho Rùa Vàng Golden Turtle Restaurant

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Pretty Ugly (RIP!), Paradise Grapevine, and The Boat for some good dancing. 

Go-to drink

Vodka Soda on dancy nights and Bourbon on the rocks on quiet nights.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

I think I’m a little micro manager in the kitchen because I’ve always baked by myself, but now that I’m working with Miguel, I’m really trying to stay back and relax.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

I always try to figure out the “why” when it comes to ingredients and technique. When you know the science behind the recipe, you’ll be able to manipulate it properly.

Hidden talent

I don’t need a knife to peel and eat a whole ripe mango. Pretty proud of that one.

Best career advice you ever received 

Communicate truthfully and respectfully” Literally one of the values we have at my current job. It applies to everything in life. Easy to say, but super hard to do. I tend to sugarcoat things, but I learned that people appreciate when you’re transparent but also kind.

Worst career advice you ever received

I can’t think of any bad advice tbh.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Read, research, talk to people. It’s tempting to get carried away, especially if you’re doing something you’re very passionate about. But there’s nothing wrong with taking your time, planning accordingly and making sure you have a financial plan and goal on paper, and an exit strategy!

In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.

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