At The Pass with Robbie Hojilla
Chef Robbie Hojilla. Photo by Evelyn Chick.
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Meet Robbie Hojilla.
🕒 8.5 min read
Currently
Chef, BBs
Formerly
It’s a long list covering 16 years in the industry. I was the head chef at Lake Inez, The Harbord Room and Hudson Kitchen. I came up through the ranks at Centro, Bistro & Bakery Thuet, Locanda Sandi, Osteria Murivecchi, Lucien, Woodlot, Ursa, and ProvisionsTO. I also had a period of doing pop-ups between 2011-2013 that got my name out there as one of the first chefs doing contemporary Filipino cuisine in the city.
Favourite dish to make right now
Filipino spaghetti. It’s a dish I used to do in my pop up days but haven’t cooked it in like eight years till now. Traditionally it’s a very sweet tomato, ground meat and hot dog ragu over spaghetti. My version though is a bit more balanced. I make caramel as the sweet base for a deeper flavour and season the beef and hot dog ragu with cane vinegar, hot smoked paprika and butter. It’s topped with cheddar, scallion and a Cheez-It cracker crumb for texture.
Last cookbook purchase
Mastering Pasta: The Art and Practice of Handmade Pasta, Gnocchi, and Risotto by Marc Vetri
Have you read it/tried any recipes
Yes. I’ve read through most of the sections on his methodology of pasta making. I don’t usually cook recipes from books unless it’s dessert/baking related. I do get inspired by techniques, methods and ingredients and can incorporate them to my dishes.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
I can’t really think of anything right now that offends me like that.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
Not a dish or ingredient, but I love seeing more cooks and chefs cooking what they love. Cooks learning in great restaurants then cooking the food of their culture or what they grew up on or passionate about usually creates delicious and original takes on dishes.
Filipino Spaghetti. Photo by Evelyn Chick.
Biggest influences
Of the chefs that I’ve worked for it’s Marc Thuet (Bistro & Bakery Thuet), David Haman (Woodlot), and Scot Woods (Lucien). Of course I’ve been influenced by the food growing up cooked by my mom and aunts and make dishes inspired by those memories. The biggest influence on my style of Filipino cuisine is Romy Dorotan and Amy Besa of Purple Yam. I ate at their former restaurant in NYC in the mid 2000s and that was the first time I saw Filipino dishes being plated a la carte and not in steam tables, so that was very inspiring. Then I bought a copy of their book Memories of A Philippine Kitchen and that was a game-changer for me.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
Asador Extebarri in Axpe, Spain. This was the best restaurant meal I’ve ever had and would love to go back.
Last thing you ate
Mushroom and Celeriac Arroz Caldo. It’s my vegan dish on the menu. When one gets ordered I always cook a little bit extra to get a couple bites in - it’s pretty tasty. Arroz caldo is the Filipino version of congee which is a real nostalgic dish for me and perfect for this weather.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Garlic, Onions, Sichuan Chilli Oil.
Guilty pleasure
Desserts of all kinds.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Lake Inez - I will always love this place. Jay Moore took over from me and he’s serving some very delicious and creative plates. Amazing and thoughtful service as well from Zac Schwartz and team. Ask about the mystery patio tasting menu.
Mineral - Amazing takes on Filipino and Pan-Asian cuisine. Daniel Cancino is establishing himself as one of the best chef’s in the city. The Grilled Pork Neck Lettuce Wrap is just one of the many tasty items here.
Hot Dip - Jonathon Lucas makes real delicious roast beef sandwiches here. My fave is the beef on a pretzel bun with a cheese dip. So good.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
Arroz Caldo. Photo by Evelyn Chick.
Go-to drink
Club soda with lime.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Not keeping a record of my dishes and recipes. I’ve been getting better these days but I’ve forgotten so many I’ve made over the years. I’ve had to text former cooks to get an old recipe and jog my memory of dishes. Ha ha.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Really thinking out dishes. Making sure it works on all levels, like does it taste good? Does it have contrasting textures? Do all the components make sense? Does the dish take too many steps and time to send out? Then making adjustments to improve them.
Hidden talent
I’m pretty entertaining at karaoke. Entertaining, not good. Ha ha.
Best career advice you ever received
To bring more of myself to work every day. That was from a restaurant critic’s review of my first chef gig. At that time I didn’t have the juice yet to be given full creative control of a menu. That review gave me the confidence that there was an audience for my style out there and to work where I was given that opportunity. The best food comes from cooking with your heart.
Worst career advice you ever received
Nothing really, there’s something to learn from everything. Bad advice can light a fire under you.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
There’s gonna be a lot of mistakes and growing pains from lack of experience. Push through and continue to grow and learn. Work at places where they are happy to teach you. Always taste your dishes before sending it out. Eat out and travel to create a taste memory bank in your mind. Read cookbooks. Take care of your health. Create a work/life balance for yourself.
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
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