At The Pass with Jason and Ryan Buising
Chef Ryan Buising (left) and Chef Jason Buising (right) of Kumain Kitchen. Photo by Carlo Decena.
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Meet Jason and Ryan Buising.
🕒 10 min read
Currently
Chef Jason Buising - Co-owner of Kumain Kitchen; part time at Bar Catalina and Gourmetguyz.
Chef Ryan Marquez Buising - I am currently operating Kumain Kitchen, a Filipino-inspired takeout restaurant with my twin Jason Buising. We are open Wednesday to Friday for delivery and pickup. I am also helping out Chef Humberto Sanchez at his newest restaurant Bar Catalina, food truck Gourmetguyz, and catering business Palleros.
Formerly
JB: The Wilcox Gastropub, Estia, Enoteca Sociale.
RB: The Wilcox Gastropub for Chef Humberto Sanchez, Estia for Chef Meaghan Foster and Jamie Ullrich, Kage Nikkei Restobar for Chef John Carlo Zabala, Gusto 501 for Chef Elio Zannoni and Chef Pasquale, Enoteca Sociale for Chef Kyle Rindinella.
Favourite dish to make right now
JB: Inihaw na Manok (Chicken BBQ) and Filipino Style Pork BBQ.
RB: Lechon Kawali - a deep-fried pork belly dish normally served with atchara, a spiced vinegar and garlic fried rice.
Last cookbook purchase
JB: I Am a Filipino: And This Is How We Cook by Nicole Ponseca and Miguel Trinidad
RB: The Whole Fish Cookbook by Josh Niland
Have you read it/tried any recipes
JB: I’ve read through the book and it has influenced a lot of our menu items that will soon be coming up in the next couple months. It’s a great book for up and coming chefs that want to further their knowledge about Filipino food and culture.
RB: Yes, I have read a quarter of it. It’s a really good read if you are interested learning a diverse array of preparing fish.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
JB: Probably bitter melon because it’s my least favourite ingredient to prep, serve, and most of all, eat.
RB: One ingredient I dislike are chickpeas. I have had so much chickpeas in staff meal, I am done eating them. Ha ha.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
JB: Ube, for the Filipino community. I’m very excited to see ube, which is purple yam. It can be used for jam or fillings for sweets and baked goods. You can also find it in cheesecakes, cookies, waffles, pancakes, lattes and ice cream.
RB: One ingredient I recommend would be Bagoong Guisad, a Filipino condiment made up of fermented shrimp paste fried with oil, aromatics, and other spices. It gives a dish layers of flavour - a rich salty, funky taste.
Who are your biggest influences
JB: Chef Andaya is the one who started it all for me. He mentored me as a high school student, believed in me, and ingrained that chef mindset. He taught me the basics of cooking. Chef Humberto Sanchez was my very first boss in the industry. Made me grow and showed me the in’s and out of the chef life. Taught me how to work clean, fast paced and to communicate clearly. My grandma Vicky had her own small business as I was a little kid and watching her execute all types of Siopao (steamed buns) started my love for food. She always prepares excellent Filipino-style dishes at family our gatherings.
RB: Chef Andaya and Chef Humberto took me under their wing as a young high school student and taught me a lot about cooking and about the industry - Chef Andaya was my high school teacher who trained me for high school cooking competition, and Chef Humberto was my first Chef in the cooking industry.
Kumain Kitchen Kamayan Box Bundle.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
JB: One restaurant that I have always wanted to try is Toyo Eatery in Makati City, Philippines.
RB: It would be Hapag in Quezon City, Philippines.
What’s the last thing you ate
JB: Suman Malagkit (steamed white glutinous rice in banana leaves) made by my Grandma.
RB: Korean Fried Chicken.
What are 3 must-have ingredients always in your fridge?
JB: Calamansi Juice, Banana Ketchup, Garlic.
RB: Banana Ketchup, Soy Sauce, Bagoong.
Guilty pleasure
JB: Ordering a lot of ice cream scoops at all-you-can eat sushi.
RB: For sure, Miss Vickie's Sea Salt & Malt Vinegar Chips.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
JB: Sansotei Ramen, Fushimi Sushi, Rol San Restaurant
RB: Saint Island Pies, Gusto 501, Loga's Corner
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
JB: Hemingway’s, 416 Snack Bar, PrettyUgly Bar (RIP)
RB: The Dock Ellis, E.L.Ruddy Co. Café, 416 Snack Bar
Go-to drink
JB: Oreo Chiller with chocolate ice cream and sake.
RB: For sure a cold Red Sangria on a nice hot, sunny day on a patio. Nothing goes wrong with that.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
JB: Folding too many towels for service that are not needed.
RB: Overthinking everything.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
JB: Keeping everything in order. Check your station before and after service. See what’s needed for service and what you can get ahead for the next couple days. Essentially, keep track of your mise en place.
RB: Always thinking ahead, and cleaning as you go.
Hidden talent
JB: Funny enough, not a lot of people know this, but I won a curling MVP in high school.
RB: Cleaning.
Best career advice you ever received
JB: “Be comfortable with the uncomfortable and bet on yourself.” - Ryan Buising
“Hard work is worthless for those that don’t believe in themselves. - Naruto Uzumaki
RB: “Read as many cook books and learn as much as possible from working with other chefs.” - Chef Andaya
Worst career advice you ever received
JB: A previous colleague once suggested I stay comfortable working one food preparation station and don't branch out to other stations. This is bad advice as in the food industry, it is more beneficial to familiarize yourself with different stations, as in business it develops your confidence in adapting to new and spontaneous cooking challenges. Branching out has given me a better foundation for preparing menus for the business. If I took his advice, I would be less versed in making menus and less comfortable with change in the kitchen.
RB: An old friend I used to talk to once said, “Why are you selling common dishes that other Filipinos can make from home." Suggesting there's no point in selling the type of food I was passionate in preparing. This suggestion to rethink my passion made me reflect and self doubt for a bit, but in the end it only motivated me to pursue it even more. I'm glad I choose to ignore his advice.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
JB: Be humble and keep asking questions. Learn as much as possible. Always be ready for the opportunities. Bring a sharpie, pen and paper. Write down every recipe.
RB: Always ask questions, speak up, and try to learn as much from every chef you work with. Always think ahead. Work smart, not hard. Be clean and early to work. Ask yourself how you can improve on your craft and at every shift. Try to learn different stations. If you’re not learning, you’re wasting your time. Lastly, networking is key.
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
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