At the Pass with Jahlea (Lea) Henry
The acclaimed long-running At The Pass series showcases Toronto and the GTA’s top chefs. You won’t find any celebrities featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got the spotlight. Meet Jahlea (Lea) Henry.
🕘 7.5 min read
Currently
Line Cook, Michelin Recommended Ten Restaurant
Formerly
Scaramouche, Miku Toronto, Laissez Faire
Favourite dish to make right now
Tom Yum Soup! I’ve been researching Thai cuisine recently, and discovering all of the techniques and flavours behind such iconic dishes like tom yum has been a crazy delicious experience so far.
Last cookbook purchase
Culinary Artistry by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg. Thrifted for two bucks. Best steal of the century!
Pistachio Financier with Roasted Strawberry Hibiscus Sorbet, Rose Diplomat Cream and Poached Rhubarb.
Have you read it/tried any recipes
I could take notes from Culinary Artistry all day - not only is it my new go-to from a creativity stand point, but it’s incredibly insightful as it breaks down every sensory building block to great dishes.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
Because the menu at Ten is so dynamic, I wouldn’t quite say I’m holding out for anything to be gone – but if I had to choose in this moment I’d say squash, because it’s been everywhere since last September!
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
While I appreciate what it does have to offer, I feel like winter is a relatively uninspiring time in Ontario. So right now, I’m dreaming of sweet summer corn in one hundred different ways - sweet, savory or just straight out of a butter bath.
Cheesy Polenta with Pan-Seared Venison, Caramelized Cippolini Onion and Crispy Pancetta.
Biggest influences
Anthony Bourdain, that man soaked up all the best parts of life like bread does with good soup.
Mashama Bailey, because she was the first person I’ve seen in this industry who looks like me, and pushed the same boundaries that I hope to push some day.
Gennaro Contaldo, because he has a passion for food that just can’t be mimicked, and he knows how to have fun with his food like no other.
And my Grandma, for supplying me with enough food-related nostalgia to make me love it in the first place!
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
Perhaps typical, but I would love to visit L’Arpège and actually experience Alain Passard’s food first hand. France is the world’s fine-dining blueprint after all - although, there is one small crispy dumpling shop I ate at in Taipei that I can literally and dramatically say, changed my life. I always want to go there!
Last thing you ate
Korean ghimmari, homemade on a day where I had a bunch of extra time: Deep-fried nori rice rolls dressed with kewpie mayo, scallions, and gochujang sauce.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Day-old rice because I can’t name anything more versatile; Limes because where others might put hot sauce, I am usually squeezing citrus; and butter.
Caramelized White Chocolate Panna Cotta with Peach Sorbet, Dalgona Honeycomb and Chamomile Sablee Crumb.
Guilty pleasure
Smash burgers, fresh Japanese mochi, a super ripe in-season mango, or good vanilla ice cream - I’m talking the one with vanilla seed specks, fancy container, uncomfortably overpriced - on top of grocery store apple pie!
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
PAI for their Thai pork belly/oxtail stew, Mom’s Pan-Fried Bun, and Ikkousha Ramen.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
I’m not much of a drinker, but Hanmoto’s is the only bar I’ve went to and fell in love with the food, and how it tastes with Tsingtao beer. Thank you for the recommend Rebecca!
Go-to drink
All I know is, if soju or makgeolli is involved, I’m in.
Morel Mushroom Soup with Ground Cherry Oil and Glazed King Oyster Mushrooms.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
I do struggle with anxiety, and a lot of times it can get in the way of what’s right in front of me. In the kitchen it slows me down, can cloud my judgment, or cause me to be forgetful. In the past, it has caused others to put me into a box and effected how I thought about myself, but, I’m breaking out of that box every day!
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Still going despite my doubts. My anxiety can hold me back, but powering through it was one of the best things I’ve learned to do. I keep it under control by staying clean, organized, and planning for three steps ahead.
Hidden talent
Writing! I write poetry and have completed one YA novel to date.
Best career advice you ever received
My first chef Chris Waye gave me words that have stayed with me: Simply not to underestimate myself, because even though I’m still young and definitely making mistakes of every size, my value as a cook, creative, and learner is there, and it won’t remain stagnant. It’s something that’s helped me recognize my worth in and outside of the kitchen.
Worst career advice you ever received
“See how much you can get away with.” When you start using this mentality outside of an occasional pinch, it’s only downhill from there.
Your advice for young cooks starting out in the business
Like Kitchen Confidential says, socialize with your co-workers! This industry is hard work, physically, mentally, and emotionally, and you have to grow with that – but when you go through it with friends by your side, it makes it that much more worth it.
Discover more chefs in the At The Pass series.
Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. (And yes, you can nominate yourself.)
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