At The Pass with Lucy Kirby
Photo by Sage Dakota.
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. Meet Lucy Kirby.
🕒 8 min read
Currently
Baker/Owner of Breadhead Bakery
Formerly
Where to begin… I’ve had so many jobs in the industry. In Toronto: Sud Forno, Buca Yorkville, Buca King. In British Columbia: Hawksworth Restaurant, West Coast Fishing Club, Nelson the Seagull, Annalena, Their There Café, and now Breadhead.
Favourite dish to make right now
Kale salad with lemon, olive oil, raw garlic, dijon, and HEAPS of Parmesan.
Last cookbook purchase
Matty Matheson’s Home Style Cookery. I was actually gifted this book by my partner’s grandfather. But the book I purchased before that was Matty Matheson: A Cookbook for my partner, because in the beginning of the pandemic we cooked a LOT, and the book is approachable.
Have you read it/tried any recipes
Yeah, easily! The Broccoli Cheddar Curry Casserole thing-y was wiiiild.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
Honestly… Roasted red pepper. I just find it slimy and it has really no flavor, to me at least. I like crunchy veg, so it doesn’t do it for me.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
I’m excited about ramps! I can’t wait to grab some and pickle them - I love stinky garlicky flavors!
Biggest influences
I traveled to Melbourne in February, and the food scene there just blew my mind. I’d say right now that bakeries down there are ones I follow and research the most. The standard for baked goods in Australia is far beyond any other country I’ve visited, and I’ve been lucky enough to travel quite a bit in my short lifetime.
I’d also say the family at Tartine in San Francisco, has been my biggest inspiration as far as the direction I’ve found myself to go in the last two years.
Breadhead Bakery Key Lime Pie.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
Noma, but that’s obvious I think for any chef who hasn’t eaten there.
Last thing you ate
Lemon Polenta Cake from Robinson Bread. Just WOW. It’s the only thing I ever really get there. No matter the flavour they REALLY know how to make a coffee cake.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Dill pickles, oat milk, pepperoncini.
Guilty pleasure
Super Nibs. It’s awful, cause they really do taste like plastic, but there’s something about the texture I cannot stop needing.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
In no particular order: Taverne Bernharts, Matty’s Patty’s Burger Club - seriously the best burger and chocolate shake -and then the Extra Burger, A1 Subs spots - I really, really love a nostalgic meal, and they deliver every time.
This was a tough one to answer because a lot of my fave spots have closed down because of the pandemic, and it’s horrible to see. But I am really loving the sustainable approachable bodegas and sandwich joints popping up all over place.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
This is a funny question for me – I moved back to Toronto in March of 2020, right before the pandemic spiraled out of control and right when everything shut down. I had lived in Vancouver for four years, and rarely visited Toronto, ‘cause I could never get time off (you know, like all chefs can’t), and I’m also recently allergic wine… so currently I’d have to say: Reposado for their pre-batched Margaritas. Larry’s Folly - they haven’t been able to open as a bar yet because they’re new as of last fall, and well, Covid, but the coffee people are awesome and the vibe is top notch. And then probably The Communist's Daughter – it’s closed, but it’s been a go-to for me ever since I could legally drink.
Breadhead Bakery Cinnamon Babka.
Go-to drink
Honestly right now, Margaritas, or a Kentucky Mule. I love tequila and whiskey, and now that I can’t drink wine, and beer doesn’t make me feel great, these are the two spirits I love the most.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Not setting a timer when I rotate trays… I’m SO bad at that. I always set a timer to start, but then forget once I check them. I’m lucky I haven’t burnt a lot of stuff lately, but when you’re overwhelmed with orders, burning something can be the worst thing you could do to yourself for time management purposes.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Clean bench, clean brain. If your crap is spread out everywhere, you will find tasks more chaotic. Folding towels as well, if I’m not wearing them on myself.
Hidden talent
I can skateboard, although I’m not a pro. But I love ripping through neighbourhoods with nice pavement in the summer.
Best career advice you ever received
“Don’t make love to it, bang it out.” Sometimes when you fuss over something, you tend to ruin it. Trust the process. Carlo Lazzarino told me this back when I started out. He was my first chef and mentor.
Also something I’ve always said to myself, “When in doubt, throw it out.”
Worst career advice you ever received
“You can’t have hobbies when you’re a chef” and “If this job isn’t your entire life, then maybe it’s not for you.” These came from the same person. You are not entirely your occupation. Remember that.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
Set your boundaries, don’t take shit from any man, and you’re never too poor to start your own business.
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