At The Pass with Shiela Labao and Miguel Hernandez
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
🕒 8 min read
Currently
Shiela Labao - Head Baker/Co-Owner at The New Pie Company, Office and HR Manager elsewhere
Miguel Hernandez - Baker/Co-Owner The New Pie Company
Formerly
This is our first foray into the food industry, so we don’t have past work experiences.
Favourite dish to make right now
SL: I’m doing a deep dive to Filipino cuisine lately and I’ve resurrected my Grandmother’s Sinigang na Hipon recipe -. It’s a soup with a sour tamarind base broth, okras, snake beans, taro root, tomatoes, and shrimp. It’s incredibly satisfying!
MH: Crispy pan seared wild mushrooms finished with butter, garlic and rosemary, served on top of arugula with shaved pecorino and some lemon juice squeezed, on top. It's fresh and simple.
Last cookbook purchase
SL: Pie for Everyone by Petey Paredez
MH: American Sfoglino by Evan Funke and Katie Parla
Have you read it/tried any recipes
SL: Not yet. She has many amazing summer fruit pie recipes so I’m waiting for the warmer season.
MH: Read it all, and tried the basic flour and water dough recipe. Hand rolling pasta is hard AF. And It gave me a lot of respect for what Chef Evan Funke does.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
SL: Beets. I’ve tried so many different dishes but I just can’t convince my brain that it tastes delicious.
MH: I love all food, but anything gimmicky or over the top is a “No” for me.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
SL: We need more pies on dessert menus!
MH: Mushrooms! I love cooking with mushrooms and would love to see them used in as many ways as possible.
Biggest influences
SL: Chef-wise: Christina Tosi. I love how playful her dishes are and I relate to her way of reaching into flavours from her childhood memories and recreating them. Also my grandmother, Angela - I used to go with her to the wet market. She introduced me to so many flavours and the joy of making food.
MH: Anyone who has been able to pursue their dreams and passions. Especially those who were able to persevere through this dumpster fire of a year.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
SL: I’d be happy eating at any of Nancy Silverton’s restaurants!
MH: Probably a small ramen shop tucked away in some random laneway or back alley in Japan.
Introducing Orange Honey Pie. Cardamom butter crust, orange and honey filling with candied oranges and cardamom syrup drizzle.
Last thing you ate
SL: A handful of sour key candies while listening to my boyfriend say that I may have a sugar addiction.
MH: Broccoli and hummus.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
SL: Butter, heavy cream, and eggs.
MH: Anchovy fillets in oil, tomato paste in a squeeze tube, and butter!
Guilty pleasure
SL: A day to myself - sitting and drinking coffee at my own pace in a coffee shop, followed by a nail appointment, and then a shopping stroll on Queen W. I’m dreaming of the day this will happen again.
MH: I can inhale an entire box of PC White Cheddar Deluxe Macaroni & Cheese Dinner. And I have... on several occasions.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
SL: Côte de Boeuf’s little wine bar, Campechano, Pho Rùa Vàng Golden Turtle Restaurant
MH: So many to choose from! If I had to pick the first three that come to mind: Ramen Isshin, Golden Turtle, Rosewood Asian Cuisine. (Bonus: Maizal. Shoutout to Ivan Wadgymar for making the best tortillas in the city!)
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
SL: Pretty Ugly (RIP!), Paradise Grapevine, and The Boat for some good dancing.
MH: Paradise Grapevine, Happy Coffee & Wine, The Rhino.
Go-to drink
SL: Vodka Soda on dancy nights and Bourbon on the rocks on quiet nights.
MH: A crisp cold Miller High Life.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
SL: I think I’m a little micro manager in the kitchen because I’ve always baked by myself, but now that I’m working with Miguel, I’m really trying to stay back and relax.
MH: Using way more dishes than I probably need to make a meal.
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
SL: I always try to figure out the “why” when it comes to ingredients and technique. When you know the science behind the recipe, you’ll be able to manipulate it properly.
MH: Adapting to things on the fly. Maybe I forgot to get a certain ingredient, or decided to change something last minute because the dish wasn't tasting right.
Hidden talent
SL: I don’t need a knife to peel and eat a whole ripe mango. Pretty proud of that one.
MH: I can remember and recite a lot of rap lyrics and Simpson's quotes
Best career advice you ever received
SL: “Communicate truthfully and respectfully” Literally one of the values we have at my current job. It applies to everything in life. Easy to say, but super hard to do. I tend to sugarcoat things, but I learned that people appreciate when you’re transparent but also kind.
MH: Life is full opportunities to learn something new, if you're willing to take them. - My Dad
Worst career advice you ever received
SL: I can’t think of any bad advice tbh.
MH: I try not to listen to negative people.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
SL: Read, research, talk to people. It’s tempting to get carried away, especially if you’re doing something you’re very passionate about. But there’s nothing wrong with taking your time, planning accordingly and making sure you have a financial plan and goal on paper, and an exit strategy!
MH: Same thing my dad tells me. " Life is full opportunities to learn something new, if you're willing to take them."
In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.
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