At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.  

🕒 4 min read

Currently 

Partner & Chef, Good Behaviour Ice Cream; Chef de Cuisine, Ascari King St.

Formerly

Il Covo, Toronto; The Modern Restaurant, New York; Quay Restaurant, Sydney

Favourite dish to make right now

Any stews or soups during the winter months. The aroma of slow cooked meals permeates our home and makes it feel so warm.

Last cookbook purchase 

Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream by Laura O'Neill, Benjamin Van Leeuwen, Peter Van Leeuwen with Olga Massov

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I love reading the stories but have not tried any of the recipes yet. And I love the journey and steps they took to get to where they are now! Unfortunate that I did not end up eating there while I lived in NYC.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Microgreens that don’t contribute to the dish.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

More ice cream!! Savoury ice creams!

Biggest influences

Gracia Bunarto, Wife
Eric Chow, Business Partner
Ryan Campbell, Jefe
Abram Bissell, formerly the executive chef at The Modern in NYC

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

I would love to bring my wife to a restaurant in Sydney, Ormeggio at the Spit. I had such a relaxing and hospitable lunch in 2014 that still resonates to this day.

Last thing you ate

Cheestring.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Eggs, deli meats, Simply Orange Juice WITH pulp!

Guilty pleasure 

Late night deli meats and cheese at 10pm.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Canton Chilli, Tinuno, Il Covo

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

The Cloak Bar, 416 Snack Bar, Bar Raval

Go-to drink

Last Word - gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liqueur, lime juice. 

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Not drinking enough water!

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Keeping the work station clean and organized.

Hidden talent 

Making a duck’s quack sound. Can’t do any other animals… just a duck!

Best career advice you ever received

“The money will come. Work hard, build relationships, take criticism and feedback.” - my mom, Mai Lam

Worst career advice you ever received 

Chase the money!

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

We look for three things when we are hiring cooks at the restaurant:

 1. Have a sense of urgency.
2. Work organized and clean.
3. Care and love what you are doing!

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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.    

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