At The Pass with Michael Lam
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
🕒 4 min read
Currently
Partner & Chef, Good Behaviour Ice Cream; Chef de Cuisine, Ascari King St.
Formerly
Il Covo, Toronto; The Modern Restaurant, New York; Quay Restaurant, Sydney
Favourite dish to make right now
Any stews or soups during the winter months. The aroma of slow cooked meals permeates our home and makes it feel so warm.
Last cookbook purchase
Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream by Laura O'Neill, Benjamin Van Leeuwen, Peter Van Leeuwen with Olga Massov
Have you read it/tried any recipes
I love reading the stories but have not tried any of the recipes yet. And I love the journey and steps they took to get to where they are now! Unfortunate that I did not end up eating there while I lived in NYC.
One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
Microgreens that don’t contribute to the dish.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
More ice cream!! Savoury ice creams!
Biggest influences
Gracia Bunarto, Wife
Eric Chow, Business Partner
Ryan Campbell, Jefe
Abram Bissell, formerly the executive chef at The Modern in NYC
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
I would love to bring my wife to a restaurant in Sydney, Ormeggio at the Spit. I had such a relaxing and hospitable lunch in 2014 that still resonates to this day.
Last thing you ate
Cheestring.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
Eggs, deli meats, Simply Orange Juice WITH pulp!
Guilty pleasure
Late night deli meats and cheese at 10pm.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
Canton Chilli, Tinuno, Il Covo
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
The Cloak Bar, 416 Snack Bar, Bar Raval
Go-to drink
Last Word - gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liqueur, lime juice.
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
Not drinking enough water!
And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
Keeping the work station clean and organized.
Hidden talent
Making a duck’s quack sound. Can’t do any other animals… just a duck!
Best career advice you ever received
“The money will come. Work hard, build relationships, take criticism and feedback.” - my mom, Mai Lam
Worst career advice you ever received
Chase the money!
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
We look for three things when we are hiring cooks at the restaurant:
1. Have a sense of urgency.
2. Work organized and clean.
3. Care and love what you are doing!
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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself.
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