Open/Closed: Toronto Restaurant News January 28-February 3, 2021

🕒 11 minute read

With the state of emergency and stay-at-home order extended, you might feel like there’s not much going on in your world, but as you’ll see below, the culinary landscape in Toronto and surrounding areas has exploded.

I present 28 places - and the fab hard-working folks behind them - to brighten your stay-at-home winter days.

Here’s the very latest:

OPEN

Toronto offers every imaginable iteration of coffeeshop. See: new steampunk café Atlantis Coffee Co (1605 Queen St. W., Unit 2) in Parkdale.

Bar Catalina (231 Lakeshore Rd. E.) in Mississauga features reasonably-priced paellas ($22-$25) by chef Humberto Sanchez, whose resume boasts DiverXO - Madrid’s only 3 Michelin-star restaurant - and Miami’s luxe Biltmore Hotel. Hot tip: His Gourmet Guyz food truck currently has Ghost Kitchen chicken sandos.

I’ve been eagerly awaiting the next project by chef Timothy Lampitoc after tucking into his stellar Filipino fare at Cass Avenue (shuttered last year). Thus, I’m stoked about his launch of “woozy” bottles of Bad Intentions Hot Sauce ($12/5 oz), available in three heat levels - Simp, Tough Guy, Reckless.

COVID’s brought about many mashups, including the latest concoction you didn’t know you needed: biscotti with a bit of give by Biscotti Queen, launching February 14, but preorders start Monday.

Boshy Bites specializes in home-cooked Vietnamese noodle soup and spring rolls, and array of shortbread (Black Sesame, Matcha Green Tea, Red Bean, and Soybean).

The Parisian café/bakery trend shows no sign of slowing down, as evidenced by Brioche Dorée (879 Bay St.) between College and Wellesley.

Tokyo Hot Fried Chicken’s popup Camp Smokehouse (300 College St.) offers such a focused menu, you might as well get one of everything (if they don’t sell out first): two towering brisket sandwiches ($13.27 ea.), Smoked Fries ($5.50), Wieners And Maple Beans ($5.50) Came Fire Slaw ($5.50), and S’mores ($5).  

The trifecta that makes up the bulk of Chubbi Chubbi Chicken’s menu - homestyle buttermilk fried chicken, “OG” mac, cherry cheesecake– is just what your lockdown life needs. Your waist, not so much. (No one’s seeing it anyway, so you’re fiiiiiiine.)

Farm Boy’s newest store drops today. Find it in the freshly developed area across from Fort York (29 Bathurst St.).

An opening in Orangeville is waaaay beyond the city limits that I cover here, but Greystones Restaurant & Lounge by Scaramouche’s chef/owner Keith Froggett deserves a nod. Plus, who knows? Maybe you’re moving there! A limited takeout menu launches Tuesday with small plates, mains, housemade pasta pizza, and desserts. 

It’s never too cold for ice cream. Hence, Honey’s Ice Cream (1448 Dundas St. W.) brick-and-mortar debut on December 19. The premium plant-based co. offers countless flavours (with Coffee with Chocolate Freckles winning ‘Cutest Name Ever’ award) made with dairy-free ingredients, alongside ice cream sandos and pies.

Roncesvalles is one of the best neighbourhoods to shop for food in the city. While there, check out Jimmy’s Coffee (2210 Dundas St. W.) at the corner of Dundas and Roncy. 

It’s difficult to keep up with all the Jollibee openings when you’re stuck indoors. Don’t sweat it, I’ve got you - One touched down at Square One (100 City Centre Dr.) Mississauga on Saturday. To catch up on the rest, click through the last few editions of my Open/Closed.

Below freezing temps, amongst other things, calls for noods. Specifically, creamy tori paitan ramen by chefs Masaru Ogasawara and Natsuhiko Sugimoto of Midori Ramen (412 Queen St. W.) at Queen and Spadina.

Pro tip: Add Milou (1375 Dundas St. W.) at Dundas and Beaconsfield to your watchlist.

Toronto’s newest specialty coffee roasters just landed eastside. Doors opened Monday for Omnia Coffee Roasters in Leslieville (1347 Queen St. E.).

I’ve been saying for years the city needs more authentic Portuguese restaurants. So my excitement for chef Julie Marteleira and Jenny Marteleira’s Petisco Kitchen cannot be contained. It turns out many feel the same, as they keep selling out, so set an alert because you don’t want to miss this.

One of the many dishes enjoying a renaissance of late: meat pies. However, we both know not all pies are created equal. Pies by Squires, the new venture by Chef Adam Squires - recently of Buca, before that Michelin-starred restaurants (Le Gavroche, Dinner By Heston) - stands out from the crowd. Menus drop Thursday, with pickups the following Monday. On this week’s list: Short Rib and Bone Marrow ($28), Roast Chicken and Leek ($28).

Pop’s Market (2279 Bloor St. W.) in Bloor West Village between Runnymede and Jane specializes in pantry items from places such as Croatia, Hungary, and Russia, in addition to beautiful housemade desserts and savoury fare. On the day I shopped, I peeped robust dishes including pork stew, grilled sausages and cabbage, and chicken schnitzel.

Find Ration Snacks by Ration Food Lab in their new home, nestled on the main floor of the The Beverley Hotel (335 Queen St W.). Shop their condiments, pick up coffee and wine, as well as order food for delivery.

Ruru Baked was a runaway success from the get-go without a full-on HQ. So just imagine what the future holds now that the custard ice cream mecca is kinda opening today at 659 Lansdowne Ave. (formerly The Landsdowne Cone). 

Act now. Tomorrow’s the last day to place your order for chef Samantha Medeiros’ Cinnamon Bun Pop Up.

Scotty Bons Caribbean Grill replaced Gyugyuya (402 Bloor St. W.) in The Annex on Friday. The third outpost of the beloved chain is the first to land downtown.

Like many restaurants launched during the apocalypse, Thornhill’s Sof Sof Grill (1200 Highway 7, Unit 1) sold out in a flash during their grand opening held earlier this week. The kosher certified eatery had to shut down and restock. Doors reopen today at 11am.

Souperlicious added a fourth outlet last month, this time in North York (2349 Finch Ave. W.). Their luscious winter warmups of soup (Corn, Red Pea with Oxtail, Cow Foot, Goat’s Head), porridge (Peanut, Cornmeal, Hominy Corn), and protein bowls (Curry Goat, Jerk, Oxtail) are must-haves for days like these. 

The Tale Indian Cuisine and Bar (3747 Lakeshore Blvd. W., Unit 1) moved into Buster's Kitchen x Bar old spot in Etobicoke. Doors opened Sunday.

Local kombucha makers ALMA + GIL have a tamale and taco popup you should know about: Tamales Mineros.

Tenaz Restaurant by chef Celia Nelson specializes in vegan sopes and gluten-free tacos, available for delivery.

CLOSED  

Saturday night marks the final service for Gordon’s Pub Kitchen (993 Queen St. E.) in Leslieville.

Stratengers in Leslieville (1130 Queen St. E.) is closing Sunday. The long-standing restaurant has been serving the neighbourhood since 1989. The Bolton outpost however, remains open. 

EVENTS 

La Poutine Week kicks off Monday.

A number of Toronto chefs are participating in this year’s National Chowder Chowdown Festival.

NEWS

Wayne Roberts, an advocate for sustainable food systems, has passed away.

Primrose Bagel and SanRemo have temporarily closed due to an employee testing positive for COVID-19, but are set to reopen shortly.

ICYMI

The third instalment of Supporting Black-Owned Restaurants is heeeeeeeere! In this edition, discover mouth-watering takeout from new arrivals and revisit neighbourhood treasures for the most delectable fare. p.s. Volume IV dropping soon! To be added in an upcoming edition, send an email. 

There are a ton of new popups you should have on your radar right now. Kusinera by chef Keanu Francisco of SARA Restaurant. Discover more in this week’s must-read At The Pass.

Two ice cream shops debuted this week, no doubt stirring up your longing for something cold and sweet. Explore all your options in The Ultimate Guide to Ice Cream + Frozen Treats in Toronto/GTA. 

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