At The Pass with Ivan H. Kuuts

🕒 6.5 min read

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.

Currently

Chef de Cuisine, Conzo’s and Sugo.

Formerly

In Copenhagen: Barr, various stages. In Toronto: Canis, Forno Cultura, The Emerson, Bestellen, The Wine Bar, various  stages.

Favourite dish to make right now

My partner made me her version of a poké bowl that I loved, so I always think of that and try to re-create it as best I can, but I guess I really just like the raw fish in a sweet/spicy marinade mixed with mayo… I love mayo. I’ll put that sh*t on everything!

Last cookbook purchase

I haven’t actually bought a cookbook in a while. The most recent one I’ve received was American Sfoglino by Evan Funke; I love making pasta and learning new techniques. Another one I received recently and love is Prune by Gabrielle Hamilton. Her food is something special! 

Have you read it/tried any recipes 

I have read through both books, more so Prune. I have yet to try any recipes, but I mainly get inspiration for future meals and endeavors.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Truffles. They just don’t do it for me.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

This is really hard to say actually, because I have a handful, but I guess if I had to pick one, it would be raw cremini mushrooms. I hate the texture of them cooked, but raw is very satisfying.

Biggest influences

My partner who happens to be a pastry chef. She pushes me to be better everyday. My friends and bosses: Conor Joerin, Alex Wallen, and Scott Pennock. And lastly, Rob Rossi, who shaped my way of cooking and taught me a lot of simple yet important techniques - I make hollandaise perfectly now. Thanks, Rob! 

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

Estela in New York City.

Last thing you ate 

Thai takeout from one of my partner and I’s favourite takeout spots.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Hellman’s Mayonnaise, Spanish Onions, Raw Garlic.

Guilty pleasure

Chips - All Dressed, Vinegar, Sweet Chili… Whatever kind of chip it is, I will gladly finish the whole bag.

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Giulietta. Thai Nyyom - Hands down the best Thai in the city. Guu Izakaya - I’ve been going there since the beginning, and they just do really consistent, honest food. 

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

Mahjong Bar or Bar Mordecai - Brian Ho and the family down there always treat me well with drinks and food. Cold Tea - These guys will always have a place in my heart. Après Wine Bar – (chef/owner) Jeff Kang has done something special down there, and the food is equally as good as his fantastic/contemporary wine selection.

Go-to drink

Gin and tonic.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

I wipe my goddamn hands on my apron! 

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Cut your tape when you label things. I thought it was ridiculous and a waste of time but if you take the time to do that, you’ll take the time elsewhere.

Hidden talent

I’m able to get all of the ingredients off of a robot coupe blade and not have to pull it out and scrape around it.

Best career advice you ever received

“Do you want to work in a nice restaurant or a Boston Pizza?” - Adam Dolley, co-owner, Loaded Pierogi and Chula Taberna Mexicana.

“I’m not your mother, I’m your chef… Don’t be late again” - Scott Pennock, co-owner, Conzo’s and Sugo.

“It’s just cooking. Slow down and think.”- Brian Ho, executive chef, Mahjong Bar and Bar Mordecai.

Worst career advice you ever received

“Done is better than perfect.” - Anonymous cook.

 Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

I grew up with two working parents and had hard work instilled into me at a very young age. I started working in restaurants at 15 as a dishwasher, and pushed so hard to become a cook a year later. I kept pushing, and here I am… 

I guess if you work really hard, you can succeed - as long as you know that you’re learning. It’s incredibly important to always learn, taste, taste, taste, stay humble and stay happy with a smile, even when things are tough. You’ll always come out with more knowledge than before.

Like my friend Brian said to me, “It’s just cooking.” Remember that when you think it’s the end of the world. Because it’s not. Lastly, remember that regardless of rank in the kitchen, no matter who it is, you can always learn. I have learned a lot from dishwashers and servers who have different ways of doing things. Don’t get cocky.

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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.

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