At The Pass with John-Francis Dugas and Chris Samaroo
Left: Chef John-Francis Dugas. Right: Chef Chris Samaroo.
đź•’ 6.5 min read
At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.
Currently
John-Francis Dugas Chef/Owner/Dishwasher/Washroom Cleaner, and Chris Samaroo: Chef/Owner/Dishwasher/Guy who gets stuff, Tanuki Restaurant.
Formerly
JFD: Intercontinental Hotel, Union Restaurant, Lee Restaurant, Akasaka Japanese Restaurant, Nakamura Bakery, and Shiso Tree Café.
CS: Intercontinental Hotels Group, Marriott Hotel Group, Fairmont Royal York, and Le Germaine Hotel.
Favourite dish to make right now
JFD: Khao Kha Moo. I took a trip to Bangkok last year and stumbled into Charoen Saeng Silom on a friend’s recommendation. It’s this tiny hole in the wall restaurant hiding down a dark alley. It also has a Michelin star. All they serve is Khao kha Moo (slow-braised pork leg). You choose between large or small size. It was one of the most delicious things I've ever eaten. I've been trying to recreate it ever since.
CS: Korean Fried Chicken.
Last cookbook purchase
JFD: The George Brown textbook? I prefer Google/YouTube tutorials.
CS: Yardbird: Yakitori: Chicken on Charcoal by Matt Abergel.
Have you read it/tried any recipes
JFD: Recently I've been trying a lot of stuff by Brad Leone of Bon Appetit and Joshua Weissman's fermentation videos.
CS: Yes, Chicken Sando.
Name one dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus
JFD: Enormous portions of meat. Eat more vegetables guys.
CS: Balsamic glaze.
And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus
JFD: Cordyceps. I've never tried them but I'm gonna put them on the menu with something. They look cool.
CS: Razor clams.
Biggest influences
JFD: I get inspired by a person who can work a grueling job and maintain a good work ethic and pleasant attitude to others. Not necessarily the most talented/creative chefs. A dishwasher who works double shifts 5-6 days a week and still comes in with a smile. That's the kind of person that inspires me to be better.
CS: Matty Matheson.
If you could eat at any restaurant in the world
JFD: Some seafood restaurant next to Luohu Fish Market in Shenzhen. Best seafood I've ever had.
CS: Curry House Coco Ichibanya - also known as Cocoichi or CoCo Ichibanya - in Japan.
Last thing you ate
JFD: Kare-kare (Philippine stew with oxtail, vegetables and peanut sauce) for staff meal. It was delicious.
CS: Scraps of leftover carrot peels.
Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge
JFD: At home? I don't cook much these days. Maybe Cereal, Milk, and Grapefruit.
CS: Kewpie Mayo, Garlic, and Sesame Oil.
Guilty pleasure
JFD: A hot bath and a glass of scotch with Chet Baker playing in the background. For real... I do this at least once a month.
CS: Condensed milk on white bread.
Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants
JFD: Ding Tai Fung, New Choice Restaurant, and Yang's BBQ. If I lived downtown: Union Restaurant, Kingyo, and Rodney's Oyster House.
CS: Big Beef Bowl, Guu Izakaya, and Congee Queen.
Top 3 favourite Toronto bars
JFD: Owl of Minerva - ate night Soju and Korean eats, Done Right Inn - best low key patio in the city, and Sneaky Dee's - second floor bar on a Wednesday night for the hip hop.
CS: Anything cheap and Korean.
Go-to drink
JFD: Lagavulin 16 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky if I have money. Beer if I have no money.
CS: Umeshu (plum wine).
One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake
JFD: Eating/tasting everything. Even things that aren't edible.
CS: I never stop talking.
One habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs
JFD: My singing voice.
CS: I never stop talking
Hidden talent
JFD: I'm pretty good on the piano.
CS: I can peel a potato pretty good.
Best career advice you ever received
JFD: Best life advice: "Reality exists only in action." Jean-Paul Sartre
Best kitchen advice: Be silly. It's not really from one specific person, but I've heard it from a bunch of people over the years. Work hard, do a good job, but if you're the world’s best chef and you're miserable, what's the point?
CS: “It does not matter where you work, as long as you are proud of the food you make and put out.” - Hans Vogels
Worst career advice you ever received
JFD: A chef once told me you can only create a successful restaurant doing Italian or Chinese food. Actually, most people in the industry will tell you starting a restaurant is a horrible idea. And they're right… but if you wanna do it, then do it. And if you fail... well, at least you went for it.
CS: Never get close to your staff.
Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business
JFD: Lose your ego and be kind. It will take you farther than good knife skills and a fancy resume.
CS: Always have empathy for those around you - remember how you started and where you came from.
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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration.
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