Toronto Restaurants by Stephanie Dickison

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At The Pass with Melissa Valdez

🕒 5 min read

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight. 

Currently

Pastry chef, Bar Mordecai and Westside Maria’s.

Formerly

Cluny’s Bistro & Boulangerie, Shook Kitchen, Janice Wong Dessert Bar Tokyo, Weslodge, La Société.

Favourite dish to make right now

I haven’t been doing much home cooking, and it isn’t so much of a dish, but I’ve been obsessed with making macarons lately.

Last cookbook purchase

In My Blood by Bo Bech.

Have you read it/tried any recipes

I’ve read through it, but have yet to make anything.

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Obnoxiously overdressed Caesars - the drink, not the salad. Please just give me a Caesar with a pickle and not a meal on top of it.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

Sweetbreads! They’re just so delicious, I’m surprised they aren’t used more often.

Biggest influences

Cedric Grolet, Janice Wong, and Will Goldfarb.

Melissa’s ‘Edible Flowers’ from Janice Wong’s edible art project in Tokyo.

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

Room 4 Dessert in Bali. It was unfortunately closed when I was in Bali due to it being their off season. 

Last thing you ate

Spaghetti Bolognese from Westside Maria’s.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Butter, Oat Milk, Garlic.

Guilty pleasure

Tostitos Salsa con Queso. Warmed up. Always

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Bar Isabel, Imanishi Japanese Kitchen, Mamakas Taverna.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars

416 Snack Bar, Paris Paris, Sweaty Betty’s.

Go-to drink

Negroni.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

As my current chef Brian Ho says, “Being a hero.” I tend to take on too many tasks thinking I can handle it all by myself, then I mentally lose it. He constantly reminds me to not be a hero and that I’m allowed to ask for help.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs

Not sure if it’s inspiring, but the dish pit can become overwhelming, whether or not you have a dishwasher, so always organize the pit. Scrape out the containers, stack things together, put utensils in the soaking bin, and if you see something that can be put away, then put it away. Helping out in the pit properly helps the team as a whole.

Hidden talent

I have a photographic memory. 

Best career advice you ever received 

Chef Zachary Albertsen, who was my chef at Weslodge and has become an extremely great friend of mine, once told me, “Never be afraid of your creativity, even if it turns out terrible. At least you’ll learn how to improve.” He gave me the confidence to start plating and creating my own dishes. Thank you Zach.  

Worst career advice you ever received 

“You’re never going to find a restaurant that you can be happy in.” Still to this day, I’m very confused to what that’s supposed to mean.  

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

There’s always room for learning. Just because you were taught a certain way to do something doesn’t exactly mean that’s the only way.

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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself. 

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