At The Pass with Nick Yuli Lin

🕒 5 min read

At The Pass is a weekly series showcasing Toronto’s best chefs. You won’t find any celebrity chefs featured here. Perhaps you already know these fine cooks, but maybe not. They’re not famous - yet. But it’s time these talented, passionate, hard-working chefs got a bit of the spotlight.

Currently

Sous chef, Constantine

Formerly 

Campagnolo, Alo, Bocuse d’Or Team Canada (2017/2019), Wilber’s Restaurant (Guangzhou, China)

Favourite dish to make right now

Recently learning how to work with dried seafood used in Chinese cuisine (e.g. dried fish maw, dried sea cucumber. No shark fins!!!). To cook with these ingredients, you need top quality stock, so making Chinese master stock has become my recent favourite. Actually, you will notice Chinese cuisine and French cuisine have lots of similarities, especially when making stock.       

Last cookbook purchase

I got two: The first one, The Ritz London: The Cookbook by John Williams, has lots of different techniques and the presentations are so elegant. The second is The Whole Fish Cookbook by Josh Niland. He not only shows you how to break down a fish differently, but also eat every part of the fish as well! 

Have you read it/tried any recipes 

I’ve read about a quarter of each, but have not tried any recipes yet. 

One dish or ingredient you’d like to see gone from menus

Adding microgreens or edible flowers on everything. I don’t mind putting some picked herbs as garnish to match the flavour profile of the dish, but can’t stand adding cress/flowers just to make the dish look “cool.” Less is more.

And one dish or ingredient that you’re excited about right now and would like to see on more menus

Eel. Canada actually has good quality freshwater eel. The most common preparation is grilled, but braised, steamed, or even filleted for hotpot are excellent methods as well. The only thing is, it is quite difficult to process, especially when butchering. 

Biggest influences 

My uncle - He’s a Chinese chef and taught me all cooking essentials when I was seven.
My first boss offered me an opportunity that changed my entire career.
Stephen Baidacoff - We used to work together. He pushed my limits everyday to make me a better cook.
Trevor Ritchie - My teacher at George Brown College CHCA. He’s the one who led me into the culinary competition world. 

If you could eat at any restaurant in the world

Paul Bocuse Restaurant. I went to Lyon twice and missed the chance on both trips, so I won’t miss it next time.

Last thing you ate

Shrimp Pasta and Fish Curry - staff meal.

Three must-have ingredients always in your fridge

Cilantro, good quality eggs, and different kinds of chili paste. 

Guilty pleasure

A full meal at 1 a.m. - commonly happens after I drink.  It has to include fresh steamed rice, a stir fry, and some kind of vegetable cooked in broth. 

Top 3 favourite Toronto restaurants

Guu Izakaya, Bar Raval, and Dong Kee Chinese Restaurant.

Top 3 favourite Toronto bars 

Whichever bar is close to work, so Horseshoe Tavern, Lucky Shrike and Artful Dodger Pub. Also, I used to hang out with the team after the Bocuse d’Or training at George Brown, so Gabby’s on King is on the list as well.

Go-to drink

Sapporo served in an ice cold glass or whiskey highball.

One habit you have in the kitchen that you should lose, but can’t seem to shake

Finding an excuse to hang out in the kitchen on my day off. Apparently I can’t do that now.

And one habit you have in the kitchen that will inspire young chefs 

Label everything, including your own tools. 

Hidden talent

I can smell the rain before it starts. 

Best career advice you ever received 

“Head down and grind it.” - Chef Patrick Kriss 

Worst career advice you ever received

Most of the advice I’ve received is positive, so N/A for this question.

Your advice for a young cook starting out in the business

Make sure your foundation skills are solid, especially some of the old school techniques – there’s a reason why they still exist nowadays. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes, but ry not to make the same mistake twice. Travel and discover other food cultures.   

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In order to support chefs during this time, the monthly At The Pass series is now WEEKLY. Know someone in Toronto or GTA who should be featured? Submit their name for consideration. And yes, you can nominate yourself. 

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